Basteir Tooth, Am Basteir & Sgurr nan Gillean

Date: 29 October 2019

I hadn't been looking forward to our appointment with The Executioner. Nor, despite the lure of Young Men, had Caroline been at all eager for a date with Gillean. Both had been looming over us for a while. They were our last remaining Skye Munros together. Actually, I'd done them before, but in both cases attached to a reassuring bit of string at vital moments. I was in two minds about whether this time round we could do them on our own, or whether we should get a guide. We borrowed a bit of gear, and had a go at replicating Am Basteir's Bad Step at home (belayed to what became known as Am Banister). Trouble is, we're both less than useless with knots and the basic physics of protection. Incompetence which seemed comical on our stairs (er, this rope I'm pulling on doesn't, er, seem to be attached to anything) might not seem quite so funny perched above Coir' a'Bhasteir. So we took the guided route - a brilliant decision, as it turned out. We certainly got more than we bargained for.

Having booked into Skye Basecamp in Broadford, when we were chatting to Mike Lates of Skye Guides I mentioned that I'd been trying to do non-standard routes on my second round. Well then, Mike suggested, what about Collie's Route onto the Tooth first, then Am Basteir and Gillean? Gulp? Even as late as the following morning I was trying to weasel our way out of it.

Er, Mike, wouldn't it make more sense to do the Munros first and then the Tooth if we've still got the light?

You mean, just do the bagging route? You're not worried, are you? Trust me, I'm a doctor!

We actually ended up with two guides for the price of one. Mike was being shadowed by Tim Miller. Now, Mike's praises have been sung often enough on this site, but Tim deserves a bit of a shout-out. An old head on very young shoulders - altogether an impressive individual: I suspect that in a few years Caroline and I will be shamelessly name-dropping about the day we shared a rope with Tim.

Anyway, enough blether. Time for a photo…

…of the lochan above Sligachan and Marsco in the background. A view we've seen countless times before, but you can't have too much of a good thing, eh? The weather, as you can see, was definitely a Good Thing - autumn at its very, very best. Sunny and windless, even on the Ridge itself.

Speaking of ridges, here is…

…Pinnacle Ridge viewed on our way up towards the Bealach nan Lice. By this time there was snow on the ground and glaze on the rocks, so we had microspikes on. They stayed on all day - I wouldn't have fancied it at all without.

A glance out beyond the Red Cuilin…

…to the mainland.

We didn't pass anyone else all day, but that's not to say that we didn't have company. A pair of ravens were keeping an eye on us from here onwards - always nice to have family along - and one of them can be seen here…

…flying above the Tooth.

So, round the back of the Tooth we went, and down to the start of Collie's Route in Lota Corrie. A neat bit of psychology on Mike's part here: he had us roped up a few yards before we got to the foot of the climb, so that there was no nervous dithering. We were straight up and at it, and before I could muster any more objections we were scrambling up the first pitch into…

…the gully. I hate to admit it, but it was fairly straightforward, and before we knew where we were, the slanting roof leading up to the Tooth was right in front of us. And here…

…we all are - or least our shadows on Am Basteir opposite. Happy Days!

We went up the little overhanging crack onto Am Basteir in Victorian fashion. Yes, there was pushing and pulling involved. Despite the efforts of others, this was the most knackering bit of the day. I felt like I was a fish being landed - and somehow having to help in the process. So be it - we wouldn't have been getting up there otherwise. Neither did I cover myself in glory going up the Bad Step on Am Basteir. More arhythmic flailing, I'm afraid.

After a bit to eat down at the Bealach, the West Ridge of Gillean went fine. Deep breaths were taken as we crossed the thinner bits, but neither of us threw our toys out of the pram. And then…

…we were there, arriving at the top of Gillean.

Now just the Tourist Route to go down. After the West Ridge, the necky bit leading off from Gillean's summit…

…didn't seem too bad.

With The Ridge of Eternal Peril behind us, we could start to enjoy…

…the view…

One of the great things about this experience was that, although for half the party it was a day's work, it never felt like they were thinking of it as 'just' as day's work. After all, it was Mike's idea to add on the extras. And either he and Tim really enjoyed the day, or they are the best fakers in the business. Their photos (for which I'm very grateful to them for sharing) suggest that the magic of the day wasn't exactly lost on them.

Where was I? Ah yes, the view…

…of Blaven…

and…

…Glamaig in the gloaming.

One person who needs a special vote of thanks here is Catrina back at Skye Basecamp in Broadford. She dog-sat Shinty for us, taking her out on the beach with her own dog Cloudy. Our absence hadn't been missed. Speaking of Shinty (and I know there are those who like a Cute Doggie pic) here…

…she is, saving herself for next year.

So, with Skye now behind us, we have a long line of Munros left to share with Shinty - from Ladhar Bheinn over to Ben Avon. Realistically, we won't be able to do this in a single trip. In fact, we'll do well to manage it in a single year. But at least it now feels as if the gate for the Long March to the east has been opened.